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Fresh-press coins 🗜🪙 from @torusculture look Fresh-press coins 🗜🪙 from @torusculture looking 🔥!!! These guys spared no expense when it came to their SHO program - even their jars are on point!!!

We made sure their quality control & assurance program is ready to catch any deviation in production or packaging, as ONLY the BEST goes out!

They are also providing QR codes with each SHO batch, that link to a page with unique images and batch-specific details about the production process - for you to gain knowledge while you consume! 🍯🧠

Check them out!

• @torusculture A new form of our flower has bloomed. 
Happy to introduce, 
Solventless by Torus. 
1st in line, live hash rosin. 

Scan QR on lid for unique images and details pertaining each batch. 
Each serving will be delivered in a reusable, opaque, uv resistant vessel for freshness and preservation.

Stay tuned for your favorite + new flavors in our new form!
Check out this Fresh Press 🗜🍯 from my latest Check out this Fresh Press 🗜🍯 from my latest clients @torusculture!!! ♾ I taught them the entire playbook, so keep your eyes open for Full-Melt Hash, Fresh Press, Magma/Jam, Cold Cure, Vapes, THCA and Medibles!!! Going to be continually assisting them with consumer education to provide transparency and show why their SHO is the best in the state!!! 🔥🧊🍯

It was super awesome hanging out with @erik.nugshots & @terpcam and giving them a bunch of fun hash & rosin consistencies to shoot! 📸 Seriously can’t wait to see more of these macro photos! I think we might just take #hashporn6 by storm!!! 🌪😎

📸: @erik.nugshots
👨‍🌾: @torusculture
👨‍🏫: @botanichemist

• @torusculture It’s here! 
✨Soft launching Hash Rosin to select locations this week.

Please tap the 🔔 icon on our profile to turn on notifications for story posts where we will announce locations.

Our commitment to you
- Single Source - grown, washed, pressed, and cured in-house
- Freshness - whole plant fresh frozen/live source materials only
- Transparency - full details and images shared for each batch

Expect additional strains and consistent drops moving forward.

Thank you for joining us on our single source journey!
Proud to announce a new collaboration and lab buil Proud to announce a new collaboration and lab build out with @torusculture in Washington! Here are some screenshots from the 3D lab design I rendered for their builders to follow (and they replicated it exactly! 🤯 Will share some videos soon because it was amazing & surreal watching this space come to life!)

This crew grows some of the best flower I’ve smoked in a minute and the rosin we’ve made together is some of the best I’ve dabbed on, in just as long!!!

Mad props to the entire crew for their attention to detail, dedication to quality and passion for learnin’ about hashin’!!! I had an amazing time on the west coast and look forward to a return visit soon!

Check these guys out if you’re in the PNW, cause their bud and hash is seriously A+++ and they are awesome hosts and people that I consider new friends! ✌️🙏✌️

Sry to everyone for the lack of posts lately! Got married and bought a house 🥳 (moved twice in 2 weeks 🤪) and have been taking care of my current clients, so there’s been no time to make fun, educational IG posts or take on new clients. Responding to unread dms and emails this week - sorry for the delays!!! ✌️
🌎 🍕 It’s International Pizza Day!!! 🎉 3 🌎 🍕 It’s International Pizza Day!!! 🎉 300g+ Solventless-Stufft-Crust w/ Pepperosini & Hashroom toppings, for those that want a little extra rosin with their hash rosin.

To let you in on a little secret: I actually made this pizza with dried starting material. 😏 I’ve honestly made some of my best Ice Water Extracted (IWE) hash and hash rosin with cured or partially dried cannabis inflorescence/flowers/buds/. 🌲

While the use of this type of dried/cured starting material has its pros: extended harvesting window that doesn’t require immediate freezing after chopping - for fresh frozen/live material, less chlorophyll leaching [possibly due to the lack of plant cell lysis during freezing of water-saturated live material], more manageable handling when scooping/sifting, as well as increased shelf stability due to lower H2O content in the trichome heads.

It also has its Cons: typical lack of being able to post-press-process similarly to FF/live extracts - Magma comes out sugary rather than chunky, necessity of a tightly-controlled temp/humidity drying room, painstaking attention to detail during harvest and careful handling of drying/dried plants - as the heads become significantly easier to accidentally knock off and lose to gravity. If you’re doing small batch, it can be a good idea to dry hash plants over a micron/mesh dry-sifting screen (83 or 110 LPI) that allows heads to pass through while sifting out fallen plant material. Really hard to catch everything at a facility, so that’s why you always see broomstick hash/pen & pencil hash in the harvest/trim room. 🤣

Throwback to when @hightimesmagazine shared my pizza slice on their page. New Goal: get my pizza printed in the paper magazine. 

Cultivar: Guru (Forbidden Fruit x Petrol OG) by @swampboysseeds

#internationalpizzaday #worldpizzaday #pizza #pizzaday #pizza #nationalpizzaday
Much thanks to @beard_bros_pharms and their writer Much thanks to @beard_bros_pharms and their writer @alexpopoff_ for keeping it real and sharing some of my viewpoints on legacy cannabis culture and some of my hashing background! 🙏 Go follow these Weed OGs and keep your eyes open for more collaborative content between us!

Repost: @beard_bros_pharms Alex Popoff @alexpopoff_ is back with another amazing interview of trending subjects...

Hash and NFT's

Jonathan Mintle, @Botanichemist (JM), Sultan of Solventless Sculpting and consultant talks hash, non-fungible tokens (NFTs), and legacy culture with Alex Popoff (AP). @Botanichemist has been featured in High Times (@hightimesmagazine), his Hash Art has won several of Frenchy Cannoli’s (@frenchycannoli) Hash Porn Competitions, he is currently consulting and working with Low-Temp Plates (@lowtemp.plates).

He is also an outspoken advocate for cannabis and criminal justice reform, and an incredible resource for anyone looking to improve their solventless extracts.

Read full interview at beardbrospharms.com
Link in the @beard_bros_pharms bio.
🌀 Rosin Cinnamon Rolls 🌀 for #hashporn5!!! W 🌀 Rosin Cinnamon Rolls 🌀 for #hashporn5!!! Why have one, when you can have 4??? This is a ‘Hasher’s Dozen’, as the rest have already been dabbed!!! 🤣 Each Sticky-Icky Bun weighs about 70g, so ~280g of hash rosin = 10oz/0.61lb. Hope you brought your dab rig!!! 🍯💨

Thank you so much @frenchycannoli & @madame_cannoli for putting on this amazing contest every year. Winning a place in the last 3 contests has been a dream come true, and I couldn’t ask for anything else. I’m so proud of everyone for honoring Frenchy and keeping his memory alive through hash!!! (Especially my SHO Sculpture Fam!😎) Good luck to all contestants! RIP Frenchy!❤️💛💚

Ever notice SHO get shiny during stretching/taffying?✨ The gold iridescence is a temporary phase that only lasts for about 5-10 minutes during/after homogenizing AKA taffying.

My *theory* for the cause of this metallic-state, is that while stretching and taffying, the crystalline structures and masses of THCA are pulled into thin, even-thickness strands that align themselves and lay flat due to their uniform shape. (Think about pipes neatly stacked on top of each other) This alignment of crystal strands allows more light particles to be reflected off the surface of the aligned crystal “wall” of THCA “pipes”, giving the rosin the appearance of being metallic. This is called ‘specular reflection’. Specular reflection is symmetrical, creating a bright, mirror-like shine.

When the rosin sits undisturbed, the crystal structures become less organized and start to appear more matte as the THCA and lipids nucleate and phase-change to their final form. The rough surface of the nucleated rosin causes ‘diffuse reflection’ which scatters light, weakening its intensity.

You can see how the recently taffyed “icing” has that shine, while the “bun” appears more matte. This is all the same grade of GG4 rosin. Crazy how different they look, right?!

#hashporn5 #cinnamonbuns #cinnamonrolls #stickybuns #foodporn @frenchycannoli @madame_cannoli @nikka__t @milahashqueen @cherryblossom_belle @cannamgardens @girlsingreen710 @aliiiiiice
70g Rosin Cinnamon Roll ✨🌀✨A close up of on 70g Rosin Cinnamon Roll ✨🌀✨A close up of one of my sculptures for #hashporn5!

Thank you so much @frenchycannoli & @madame_cannoli for putting on this amazing contest every year. Winning a place in the last 3 contests has been a dream come true, and I couldn’t ask for anything else. I’m so proud of everyone for honoring Frenchy and keeping his memory alive through hash!!! (Especially my SHO Sculpture Fam!😎) Good luck to all contestants! RIP Frenchy!❤️💛💚

Ever notice SHO get shiny during stretching/taffying?✨ The gold iridescence is a temporary phase that only lasts for about 5-10 minutes during/after homogenizing AKA taffying.

My *theory* for the cause of this metallic-state, is that while stretching and taffying, the crystalline structures and masses of THCA are pulled into thin, even-thickness strands that align themselves and lay flat due to their uniform shape. (Think about pipes neatly stacked on top of each other) This alignment of crystal strands allows more light particles to be reflected off the surface of the aligned crystal “wall” of THCA “pipes”, giving the rosin the appearance of being metallic. This is called ‘specular reflection’. Specular reflection is symmetrical, creating a bright, mirror-like shine.

When the rosin sits undisturbed, the crystal structures become less organized and start to appear more matte as the THCA and lipids nucleate and phase-change to their final form. The rough surface of the nucleated rosin causes ‘diffuse reflection’ which scatters light, weakening its intensity.

You can see how the recently taffyed “icing” has that shine, while the “bun” appears more matte. This is all the same grade of GG4 rosin. Crazy how different they look, right?!

#hashporn5 #cinnamonbuns #cinnamonrolls #stickybuns #foodporn @frenchycannoli @madame_cannoli @nikka__t @milahashqueen @cherryblossom_belle @cannamgardens @girlsingreen710 @aliiiiiice
Let’s Taco ‘bout it!!! 🌮 🗣 Lately, I hav Let’s Taco ‘bout it!!! 🌮 🗣 Lately, I have been thinking about starting a once a week IG Live or ClubHashRoom on @clubhouse, to discuss all things hash & rosin *we’ll definitely get off topic about all sorts of other scientific concepts too. Lol.*

Would anybody here be interested in joining such a room? Leave some topic ideas for discussions in the comments, and I’ll write them down and try to lay out some talking points for each.

Maybe the first chat will discuss the history and definitions of Solventless extracts like charas, dry-sift, IWE/bubblehash, rosin and its post-processes. Then subsequent chats can go into detail about each specific product and its production methods.

Do you like Clubhouse or IG live? Any other apps/communities I should check out??

Also, when do you all have the most time to join a live conversation like that? Week nights? Weekend days/night? My analytics show that most of my followers are on this app from Wed-Thursday around 5pm, but I’d like to know what’s best for you!!!

Thanks for always being so interactive and genuinely interested in the things I have to say. I appreciate each and every one of you!!! 🙏🙌🙏

Photo is a 🌮 made from @swampboysseeds Guru (Forbidden Fruit x Petrol OG). Carne Asada, Cebolla, Cilantro y Jalapeño. Shout out to @hightimesmagazine for sharing it last year!!! 🙏
Hash-Rosin 🍯 Mushroom-Melt 🍄 Time-Lapse ⏳ Hash-Rosin 🍯 Mushroom-Melt 🍄 Time-Lapse ⏳ Watch the surface of the rosin throughout the video: it begins somewhat matte after taffying, due to lipids/waxes, cannabinoids and terpenes being homogenized together.

Over time, the surface becomes more glossy and visibly “wet” as the terpenes want to disassociate from the rest of the solution; and being more volatile than the rest of the compounds: must exit and evaporate from the surface. This is the basic premise of “cold-curing”, although the terpenes are retained in a sealed vessel during the “cold cure” and reintroduced by mixing.

This hash-fungus doesn’t exhibit the gold iridescence we often see during taffying, and that might be because it was made with dried bud as the starting material. *More impurities reduce the ability of THCA crystals to align, and also reflect & refract light differently*

Like we discussed yesterday: over time, oxygen exposure will allow crystalline THCA to degrade to Δ-9-THC and eventually CBN. *IMO, this is one reason why fresh-frozen starting material shows quicker crystal-faceting and enlarger resulting “diamonds” in heat cures, than the “sugary” sauce produced by dried/cured bud. Certain terpenes are also hygroscopic, and can attract water molecules that induce nucleation at more sites, resulting in more plentiful, but smaller crystal formations.

This crystal > liquid concept can be seen in crystallized THCA isolate produced from repressing rosin (at temps too low to decarb) and as a viscous liquid when in THC distillate form or decarbed rosin for carts (both processed at higher temps for extended periods of time.) Losing the carboxyl group seems to prevent Δ-9-THC from crystallizing, and it remains as a glassy to sappy liquid, depending on THCA:THC ratios.

The amber presence in the trichomes comes through to the rosin color, typically resulting in a goldenrod or butterscotch/caramel color - this is generally my fave colored rosin, as I prefer a sedative effect. I’ve had amazing tasting rosin that is much lighter, but effects seem to be somewhat one-dimensional. This is anecdotal and personal to me, so your results may vary.

Vid 1: edit. Vid 2: original.
#plzdonteatrosin 🍝 Rotini or 3.5g rosin noodles #plzdonteatrosin 🍝 Rotini or 3.5g rosin noodles??? These should NOT be covered in marinara. 🇮🇹 Not because it would be bad for you, simply because the THC is still in its acidic form as THCa: a molecule with less affinity for cannabinoid receptors than the well-known Delta-9-tetrahydrocannabinol (Δ-9-THC). While providing some medical benefits such as being anti-inflammatory and neuroprotective, THCa will not intoxicate you or get you high. [HENCE, why I factiously say #plzdonteatrosin].

This is where decarboxylation AKA decarbing comes in: applying low heat for extended periods of time - to flower, hash or concentrates - removes an acidic carboxyl group (COOH) and converts THCa > THC. Drying and curing cannabis over time can also cause this conversion. Smoking/vaping will instantly decarb cannabinoids due to the high temps, making them absorb into your bloodstream instantaneously when inhaling.

THCa rapidly decarbs at 220°F after around 30-40 minutes of heat, but a large percentage of people choose to decarb at lower temps for longer periods of time to preserve terpenes/aroma. (Myself included. See second photo for a 30 year old Russian graph illustrating conversion over time/temp.) Extended periods of decarbing or even aged cannabis exposed to oxygen & UV light can convert the THC > CBN (cannabinol) which causes a more sedative and less psychedelic effect than Δ-9.

Indirect markers of THC > CBN oxidation can be witnessed w/ the naked eye. As trichomes mature, they become amber - which indicates the presence of CBN. This does not necessarily mean that the trichomes have stopped cannabinoid biosynthesis, and more time could allow further increases in cannabinoid levels.
🔊🆙 For Sticky, Hashy, Taffy ASMR 🧤🍯 Ro 🔊🆙 For Sticky, Hashy, Taffy ASMR 🧤🍯 Rosin is usually pretty sticky and easily gets stuck to gloves. You have to be QUICK, as the heat from your hands/friction of taffying & stretching causes the rosin to melt and get sticky. The ideal situation is to work swiftly in a COLD room. 

I initially roll the entire mass of rosin into a ball and then I start folding while twisting. 1 fold becomes 2, 2 become 4, 4 to 8, 8 to 16 to 32 to 64 to 128 to 356 to 512 to 1,024 and that’s only 10 folds. This folding/taffying introduces some oxygen that speeds up the curing/final phase-change process, which results in a stable & easy-to-handle product.

*However, I don’t taffy it if post-processing into carts, magma/sauce or cold cure. I do taffy rosin that will be fractionated into THCA/terp sauce, as it cures/budders more rapidly, and I can also form it into a perfect rectangle for wrapping in steel mesh.*

While I twist, I am trying to minimize contact with large surface areas of my hand, to avoid heating it up too much. I mainly try to use my fingers and only palm the rosin when rolling it across my gloves to pick up little stuck pieces - Turning my wrist, while using the weight of the rosin to roll over and pick up the melted pieces. Take breaks if needed, so your hands and the rosin can cool.

**TIP: put on a tight pair of gloves, dip your hands in ice water, dry off on low-lint towel (no paper towels!!!) and then put on the next size up glove, on top, before attempting to taffy. Also makes it easier to take a break and slip the gloves off, to let any melted rosin harden before resuming. You can also sandwich your rosin between two cold plates of metal(like frozen freeze dry trays.)**
SLO-MO Sifting some freeze-dried live hash before SLO-MO Sifting some freeze-dried live hash before bagging! 46u-119u flowing like sand through the sieve! 🏝 Notice the parchment paper inside the dish, and underneath the dish? Hash will inevitably float around the room and statically attract to half of your equipment and melt to your steel tables, but won’t stick to parchment and can be brushed right into your jar/rosin bag. That’s one reason I like to press rosin in a different room than the cold one I wash/sift in.

Also, when sifting, ensure that the mesh is larger than the heads you’re collecting, otherwise you’ll be rupturing those heads and clogging up your sieve. (If you can stick a needle tip/toothpick tip into the holes, it’s fine.) Also, mimic this motion and let gravity do the work of sifting, rather than trying to force anything through. Sifted hash will fill the corners of the rosin bags much more easily than sticky, little chunks. Which increases yield because the resin doesn’t get trapped in the unfilled nylon mesh.

When the mesh isn’t too small, your room is cold enough and it’s fully dry: you end the process on your freeze dryer, but let the chiller run (don’t click “no more drying” “needs more dry time” etc, just hit okay, slowly purge the vac and sift one tray at a time after looking at the heads under a microscope or jewelers loupe. You want to see a large majority of reflective heads vs stalks and green bits of plant. 

I label my trays in advance, so I know where each micron & wash cycle is, as the beginning washes always have a higher content of heads vs contaminant. If separating by grade, sift the trays into their own jars for later pressing/packaging. If making mixed micron, I advise that all “pressable” hash be thoroughly mixed together before filling into rosin bags. Same weight each bag, with the same grade hash reduces variables to the point where you can tell if times, temps & psi are altering your yield or quality. Take notes non-stop and maintain an extraction journal to keep from forgetting the nuances you find!!! 👨‍🏫 @nxtlvl_cannabis sieving their first batch!!! 👏
✨Ever notice Rosin or BHO get shiny during stret ✨Ever notice Rosin or BHO get shiny during stretching/taffying?✨ The gold iridescence is a temporary phase that only lasts for about 5-10 minutes during/after homogenizing AKA taffying.

My *theory* for the cause of this metallic-state, is that while stretching and taffying, the crystalline structures and masses of THCA are pulled into thin, even-thickness strands that align themselves and lay flat due to their uniform shape. (Think about pipes neatly stacked on top of each other) This alignment of crystal strands allows more light particles to be reflected off the surface of the aligned crystal “wall” of THCA “pipes”, giving the rosin the appearance of being metallic. This is called ‘specular reflection’. Specular reflection is symmetrical, creating a bright, mirror-like shine.

When the rosin sits undisturbed, the crystal structures become less organized and start to appear more matte as the THCA and lipids nucleate and phase-change to their final form. The rough surface of the nucleated rosin causes ‘diffuse reflection’ which scatters light, weakening its intensity.

I’ve also included a diagram from 1891 (pic 4), which shows the microscopic shapes of silk, wool and cotton and the differences in their cross-sections (circular with smooth surface vs scaled (much like human hair) vs flat and twisted like a ribbon) Ex: silk often appears glossy & shiny, while wool and cotton are more curly and appear matte. This is directly due to the way light particles reflect off straight or rough surfaces: specular/diffuse reflection. While not exactly parallel (due to plant and animal oils and different chemistry), with this comparison, we can understand what is happening during the taffy process at the molecular level. 🔬🧠 

(Continued in comments…)
Coins, coins, coins! 🪙🪙🪙 Here’s an exam Coins, coins, coins! 🪙🪙🪙 Here’s an example of crumblier rosin pressed into jars.

Some grams just need to be collected and pressed into the jar, if they’re not stable enough to be handled. When they’re too crumbly, scoop the chunks onto your accurate scale (0.01g accuracy) then use the heat of your gloved finger to press and melt the powdery rosin into the bottom of the jar. *Typically, crumbly rosin will test higher in cannabinoids and slightly lower in terps - this makes for easy THCA fractioning, as you can pour the rosin into the bag, opposed to wrapping it or wrestling it into the bag.*

Not the end of the world, as effects are delivered. But I find the aroma & flavor of hash/rosin, to be just as enjoyable as the effects. The scientific jury is still out on the entourage effect, but there’s obviously synergy between terpenes and cannabinoids.

Also, it seems as if “stabilized” rosin (what some people are referring to, when they say “cured” rosin) has the ability to hold onto terpenes within the heat-formed crystal matrix of cannabinoids. Drier rosin can lack in jar aroma, but it absolutely comes through when dabbed and the heat disassociates the lattice. I’m no crystallographer, so this is conjecture. 

This can also work for dried out/buddered rosin from the dispo, but let’s hope they’re keeping hash & rosin refrigerated. If someone has your rosin on the shelf and they’re not keeping it cold. Get a display fridge with your logo all over it and take it to them. SHO should also be kept out of direct sunlight and UV light. I do actually prefer opaque jars, but sometimes you have to work through inventory before you can re-order. Clear glass jars can be protected by placing in a cardboard box, which also allows them to be stacked upright - preventing the rosin from melting to the lid. 

Shelf-life is HIGHLY dependent upon storage conditions. It’s been proven through stress testing w/ heat, light, oxygenation, refrigeration, and freezing, that treating SHO like a food that can spoil, is the best way to preserve flavor, aroma, cannabinoids and physical stability. 📊👨‍🏫
Garlic 🧄 Margy Gnocchi 🍲 Sometimes rosin isn Garlic 🧄 Margy Gnocchi 🍲 Sometimes rosin isn’t as stable as these handmade gnocchis, and is too difficult to handle because of it’s tacky or crumbly consistency.

Crumbly rosin can occur for multiple reasons, too high heat during press, too long of a press, too much pressure (forcing lipids and stalks through the rosin bag) - or a combo of all 3.

Some strains aren’t drippers, and will want to stay on the parchment atop the heated plates. Fold your parchment via the directional flow method or use shorter press times to avoid “buddering” on the plates - which is caused by evaporation of terps, and heat-induced nucleation of cannabinoids. I utilize lower fill weights and bags with a higher perimeter to area ratio, that I’ve highlighted in previous posts; in order to minimize time on the press. Maximizing terps and total yield - which always comes back to the potential of the starting material. Can’t make fire hash with mids, or even dank if it was improperly harvested and handled. 🔥 in, 🔥 out. 🗑 in, 🗑 out.

Some grams just need to be collected and pressed into the jar, if they’re not stable enough to be handled (too sticky- work on parchment atop a refrigerated baking sheet to get into grams/too crumbly - scoop onto scale then use the heat of your gloved finger to melt the powdery rosin into the bottom of the jar - also works for dried out/buddered rosin from the dispo).

If the rosin comes off the press, cools, and looks like it’s gonna be hard to handle… don’t even try to taffy it. Sticky presses generally lend themselves well to secondary processes like: heat cures - jam/magma, carts and infuse easily into edible recipes.

Crumbly presses do well in THCA fractionation, fresh press, carts, heat cures(though diamonds won’t form if there are large levels of lipids), and sometimes cold cures (you want terps for CC, so if you cooked it on the plates.. try something else).

What’s the craziest consistency you’ve ever seen at the press? One time I seemed to have isolated THCA on one side, and formed THCA diamonds in terp sauce at the other end. Confirmed via analytical data. 🤓
🐍>🪙 Rosin Coins Pt. 2: Once the rosin snake 🐍>🪙 Rosin Coins Pt. 2: Once the rosin snake is about as thick as a sharpie marker (see last post), I use titanium-coated, nonstick scissors ✂️ to cut the snake into even-sized “slugs”. 🐌 Once I have all of the slugs cut, I’ll weigh them with a scale that is accurate to 0.01g. I’m usually aiming for 1.06g w/ a tolerance of +\- 0.02g in either direction.

If the slug is overweight, I pinch & snap a tiny bit off and leave it to the side to add to any underweight slugs. 

After everything is properly weighed, I roll the slugs into balls, then oppose my pointer finger and thumb to squish the ball into flat cylinders/coins. Place the coin down on parchment and give a slight squish, this will flatten the top of the coin (which is facing downward atm).

After it hardens, you can drop the coins in your jar, flattened -side-up. Add a small amount of pressure to stick the rosin to the jar once you have it centered and upright. It can be a little tricky at first.Some grams just need to be rolled up and pressed into the jar because they’re not stable enough to be handled (too sticky/too crumbly).

Any questions???

Photo taken during my consultation with @nxtlvl_cannabis out in OK. Fill out the Form in my bio to contact me regarding consulting and I’ll fly out to your lab!✌️
200g+ Live Hash Rosin Snake! 🐍 After the taffyi 200g+ Live Hash Rosin Snake! 🐍 After the taffying process shown in my last post, I will then roll the mass of rosin into an even-thickness “snake”, across the parchment.

I’ll pull on one side of the snake, using the weight of the rosin to stretch the snake. Not pulling too fast with my hands, as the heat from the friction of stretching can cause the rosin to stick to your gloves. Sometimes I’ll roll it like dough, to get it perfectly even.

Once the snake is about as thick as a sharpie marker, I use titanium-coated, nonstick scissors to cut the snake into even-sized “slugs”. Once I have all of the slugs cut, I’ll weigh them with a scale that is accurate to 0.01g.

If the slug is overweight, I pinch & snap a tiny bit off and leave it to the side to add to any underweight slugs.

After everything is properly weighed, I roll the slugs into balls, then use my pointer finger and thumb to squish the ball into perfect coins. Place the coin down on parchment and give a slight squish, this will flatten the top of the coin, and after it hardens you can drop the coin in your jar, flat-side-up. Any questions???

Thanks to @nxtlvl_cannabis for letting me bring this little 🐍 to life, at the end of a long weekend of on-site training! Looking forward to seeing the products that come out of their lab!!! Keep your eyes open if you’re in OK! 🧊🌀🗜🍯🔥 ALSO: WHO’S READY FOR THE @frenchycannoli HASHP0RN ART CONTEST?!?!
🍬 TAFFY TECH: Shown here is the rosin stacking 🍬 TAFFY TECH: Shown here is the rosin stacking 🥞 & “taffying” process of homogenizing drips like I referenced in my last post. Before taffying (homogenization), the individual rosin squishes will have some lighter-colored areas that have much higher concentrations of THCA and cannabinoids whereas the darker, more moist areas have higher levels of terpenes/terpenoids.

Like I mentioned last post: “Before pressing hash into rosin, I like to thoroughly mix each wash number(grade of hash) together in a single vessel. This ensures that the hash is one single grade, combined from all the micron range heads that were collected in each wash. I like this approach because it minimizes variables in determining yields which directly translates to pheno-selection.” *It also reduces the need for excess taffying*

And considering rosin is a wide-spectrum cannabis extract that very closely resembles the terpene and cannabinoid profile of the whole plant, and Florida is a medical market with patients seeking consistent relief: the need for taffying/homogenizing becomes apparent, as it is essential for each patient to receive the same dose of cannabinoid:terpene:lipid ratio each time they purchase that product.

This process also adds oxygen, which speeds up the curing/“buttering” process, and results in a form that stays stable on the shelf. Even when the Dispo doesn’t have a hash cooler.. 😬 (Real talk: Don’t let dispos display your hash at room temp. It should be kept cold to maximize stability, shelf life & terps.)
Drips on drips on drips🍯 Notice the even color Drips on drips on drips🍯 Notice the even color and length? Before pressing hash into rosin, I thoroughly mix each wash together in a single vessel. This ensures that the hash is one single grade, combined from all the micron range heads that were collected in each wash. I like this approach because it minimizes variables in determining yields, which directly translates to pheno-selection.

If you’re trying to determine average head size for a certain pheno, it’s a great idea to weigh each micron grade before mixing together. You can use that data to narrow down your micron bag/filter selection and catch the heads you want, while letting the stalks and plant matter pass through/get stuck in another bag.

*This also means that if you over-agitated or are using the wrong range of bags/micron filters, you may be adding plant matter/trichome stalks to your “hash”, which will, in fact, act as a sponge and give you diminishing returns; which can also possibly introduce chlorophyll and other undesirables into your finished rosin - resulting in darker color, harsher smoke and more char left in the banger.*

If the large majority of your hash is collected in the first couple wash cycles, that’s a good sign that your heads were ripe for harvest. If each wash is about the same, you may want to revisit your harvest schedule. As more agitation cycles generally means more contaminant.
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Freshly-dried live trichome heads from Fresh Froze Freshly-dried live trichome heads from Fresh Frozen bud! When sifting hash, make sure that your tools are thoroughly cleaned and dried. If the resin is particularly sticky, you can pre-chill your sieve by putting in the fridge.

It’s important to sift and mix your hash together before bagging to ensure consistent yields and quality throughout, which will require less mixing/taffying at the end of the process.

Once the hash is determined to be fully dry, separate the grades that are to be mixed together. (I use a microscope to compare the amount of trichome heads vs stalks/plant matter- if the amount of contaminant is greater than 1/3 of the total, I set that hash aside to be pressed separately)

By utilizing multiple short washes, and collecting the hash in between cycles, you can effectively take “cuts” of the hash coming out. The first few washes (cycles 1-3) are going to contain the most heads and least amount of stalks and plant matter. The middle washes (3-5) will have more contaminant, and the final washes (5-7+) will have the most. This is due to excess agitation causing the leaf matter to break up to trichome-sized pieces, which also causes the stalks to fall off.

I understand wanting to get everything possible off the plant, but at a certain point, you will also be getting contaminants that you don’t want. That is why it’s important to take “cuts” and separate your scoops by wash cycle #. I like to write the bag micron # and wash cycle # on the parchment on the freeze dryer tray (25u 1st wash, 45u 3rd wash, 90u 2nd wash, etc) that way I can easily add grades together once dry.

Add the separated washes together in a sieve, then gently sift the hash chunks into a powder inside your jar/parchment-lined Tupperware, then mix all that hash together again. We want all the various washes to be homogenized, otherwise your hash>rosin yields will vary from bag to bag.

First few washes always yield more rosin, because there’s less plant matter to soak it up and hold onto it, inside the rosin bag. This rosin is typically a lighter color too, so subsequent washes will show lower % yield and possibly variations in aroma and color. Mixing the hash avoids this.
Need new wash bags? 🌀 Are you using older bags Need new wash bags? 🌀 Are you using older bags than have gone through 50+ washes? Possibly finding abnormal amounts of plant matter and stalks in your ‘full-melt’ bags? If you have owned your current wash-bags for an extended period of time, and use them every day or multiple times a week, it may be time to get a replacement/backup kit.

Micron(µm) filtration bags, like rosin bags, can warp or stretch over time through heavy use or accidental abuse. This is because the mesh is woven together, and not held in place by any adhesive, so the individual filaments can slightly flex and spread apart (think of cartoon characters bending jail bars open), which can lead to larger particles passing through to the smaller micron bags. (See 2nd photo for an illustration on how mesh is constructed)

It’s quite easy to damage mesh bags and is most often done when stretching a bag over the collection bucket/trashcan for easier scooping. Pulling the bag taut -evenly around all sides- will keep the filaments aligned, but too much in one area can disfigure those square openings into smaller diamonds or larger ovals. Also, the handles of many collection vessels themselves can tear bags, as HDPE/LDPE vessels are injection molded and often have sharp edges. I avoid handle-tears by moving a 32gal bag into a smaller diameter 5gal bucket, which doesn’t over-stretch the base of the bag.

Also, take care to not apply too much pressure to the bags w/ the spoon, when collecting the wet hash after a cycle - this can also alter the size of the openings. And when collecting, only tap your spoon on the metal freeze-dryer tray, and not the rim of the collection vessel (which could cut your bags.. I’ve seen it before..)

Also, for hand-washers: too much cube ice + paddles with sharp edges can cut your mesh, though the 220u bags have thicker filaments than the small mesh, so they’re slightly more resistant to tears than smaller um.

Any questions?

Use my code ‘Botanichemist’ for 5% off the entire store at @rosinevolution100! All 4 + 8-bag kits of wash bags aka ‘Bubble Bags’ (5, 20, 32GAL) are currently on special, and you can take even more off with my code! Find them at @lowtemp.plates too!!!
Sifting some freeze-dried live hash before bagging Sifting some freeze-dried live hash before bagging! 46u-119u flowing like sand through the sieve! 🏝 Notice the parchment paper inside the dish, and underneath the dish? Hash will inevitably float around the room and statically attract to half of your equipment and melt to your steel tables, but won’t stick to parchment and can be brushed right into your jar/rosin bag. That’s one reason I like to press rosin in a different room than the cold one I wash/sift in.

Also, when sifting, ensure that the mesh is larger than the heads you’re collecting, otherwise you’ll be rupturing those heads and clogging up your sieve. (If you can stick a needle tip/toothpick tip into the holes, it’s fine.) Also, mimic this motion and let gravity do the work of sifting, rather than trying to force anything through. Sifted hash will fill the corners of the rosin bags much more easily than sticky, little chunks. Which increases yield because the resin doesn’t get trapped in the unfilled nylon mesh.

When the mesh isn’t too small, your room is cold enough and it’s fully dry: you end the process on your freeze dryer, but let the chiller run (don’t click “no more drying” “needs more dry time” etc, just hit okay, slowly purge the vac and sift one tray at a time after looking at the heads under a microscope or jewelers loupe. You want to see a large majority of reflective heads vs stalks and green bits of plant. 

I label my trays in advance, so I know where each micron & wash cycle is, as the beginning washes always have a higher content of heads vs contaminant. If separating by grade, sift the trays into their own jars for later pressing/packaging. If making mixed micron, I advise that all “pressable” hash be thoroughly mixed together before filling into rosin bags. Same weight each bag, with the same grade hash reduces variables to the point where you can tell if times, temps & psi are altering your yield or quality. Take notes non-stop and maintain an extraction journal to keep from forgetting the nuances you find!!! 👨‍🏫
@nxtlvl_cannabis submerging chunks of fresh frozen @nxtlvl_cannabis submerging chunks of fresh frozen in the @lowtemp.plates Osprey, to ensure even rehydration through all the buds.

Like I mentioned yesterday, you want to gently mix the starting material throughout the rehydration process. You can tell the bud isn’t fully hydrated by two (kinda three..) methods:

One: The bud wants to float rather than easily submerge under water, unless weight is added from above. This is easy to accomplish with work bags, as you can use your paddle/whisk to keep the bags under water. If you’re washing naked, like in this case, you need to physically push each piece of bud at the top, down, from time to time. Preferably with a paddle, as 32°F water chills ya QUICK, even with gloves.

2: You can physically break open a larger nug, peer inside, and determine how dry the inside is, compared to the outer surface area. When I’m breaking soaked buds open, I’m looking for that hydration difference between the layers/bracts, which appears as darker when soaked and lighter when not. (Like a wet-weed-T-shirt-contest 🤣)

Three: I’m also *listening* for snapping and crackling sounds while pulling the bud apart. Hopefully, your FF was frozen rapidly after chop and isn’t covered in ice crystals (so that shouldn’t be the sound), and you’re not listening for the stem to snap either.. but rather listening for what dried herb *sounds* like when you break it up by hand.

Might be difficult to pay attention to if you have multiple vac pumps running, but it’s one small thing I’ve noticed when getting up close and personal with kilos of FF.

Any questions?
@nxtlvl_cannabis’s Osprey from @lowtemp.plates a @nxtlvl_cannabis’s Osprey from @lowtemp.plates about to take off on her first flight! 🌀🌲🧊🍯 We loaded this beast up with 17,000g of Fresh Frozen and let her rip, after a thorough rehydration soak.

The Osprey is insulated so well, that it keeps the wash cold, through the entire process. Even after a slower pull/scoop process than usual (going slow to train the whole staff), the contents of the wash vessel never exceeded 33°F. And this was in their 65°F lab, prior to building their cold room.

We made a short-term Nest, to catch and filter the hash slurry, while allowing the >40gal of filtered water to be recirculated into the Osprey via chugger pump. This water was PURPLE, y’all!

I recommend recirculating your wash water, unless you’re washing outdoor/greenhouse, which is more likely to have dust/dirt/pests on it. In those cases, I would do my rehydration soak, only agitate enough to submerge all buds for 15-45 min(dependent on density and bud size), then filter that water, collect the hash, dump the soak water (which will contain dirt,etc as well as some chlorophyll), then add new, chilled water and begin your normal IWE process.

The Osprey is insulated so well, that VERY LITTLE ice is needed, especially if using chilled water from a reservoir. This results in less physical breakage of stalks and plant matter, by the sharp ice, and also increases the ease of toroidal flow at lower RPMs.

Thanks to @nxtlvl_cannabis & @lowtemp.plates for the opportunity to visit OKC! Hit up NXTLVL if you’re local, and tell them @botanichemist sent ya!!! ✌️If you’re interested in SHO consulting from me, follow the link in my bio to complete a short survey and we’ll get started!!! 🧊🗜🍯
Glad everyone has been enjoying the educational po Glad everyone has been enjoying the educational posts! If you think these IG posts are detailed, I’ll let you know there’s MUCH more where that came from, because @lowtemp.plates and I have partnered together to create educational content as well as providing comprehensive and personalized consulting to both individuals & businesses, either virtually or on-site! I’m located in the southeast, but willing to travel across the states and even internationally.

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As well as complete training from harvest methods to hash-making to post-processing rosin into derivative products, and everything in between.

Please check out my new website (Botanichemist.com) and if you’re interested in consulting, please fill out the introductory survey (link in bio) and I will get back to you promptly. We can further discuss your processing requirements and our plan of action and get your lab processing ASAP. 📞🧊🌀🍯
MAGMA 🌋 Freshly pressed rosin, sealed in a pres MAGMA 🌋 Freshly pressed rosin, sealed in a pressurized jar and exposed to heat for an extended period of time.

The concept is the same in many re-crystallizations: disassociate(with heat) a supersaturated compound(rosin) with crystalline structures(THCA), then under extended heat and pressure, the THCa crystals nucleate/precipitate and form structures(diamonds) while the “solvent”(THC/THCA-rich terpene fraction) stays separated.

This consistency is formed after partial decarboxylation, which disassociates the homogenous oil and allows similar compounds to easily pair and form THCA crystals and puddles of terpenes.

Temps and times matter, but making a chunky jam is based on qualitative analysis.

Generally speaking: you’ll want to have a tightly sealed mason jar about 1/2 full of fresh-press, put in oven at 180-225°F for 20-90 min. You must sit in front of the oven at all times to ensure it doesn’t pass your mark.

And to find your mark, you must witness 4 phase changes: 1. The rosin becomes opaque and starts rising like bread. Bubbles expanding from within. 2. The entire mass will start to bubble and seem to fill 75% of the jar. 3. The bubbles will pop, rosin comes into contact with the hot jar and starts to liquify from the bottom up. 4. You pull IMMEDIATELY after witnessing 50% of the opaque bubbles become a darker liquid at the bottom. Small bubbles indicate the beginning of decarboxylation and means you have gone too far. After your final phase change, you will leave on top of a 100°F heat mat or source of similar heat until crystals form. Do NOT open the jar while hot, or before crystallization has finished.

Chunky diamonds to sugary sauce can be created, by manipulating the time and temp that rosin is subjected to. Play around to get a feel for what the resin wants to do!
An empty 25u 2x7” rosin bag after an 87% yield f An empty 25u 2x7” rosin bag after an 87% yield from hash > rosin. The 2x7” is one of my favorite sizes to use for hash rosin because of its high ratio of perimeter : area. When your bag has more perimeter, and less width: the oil has a shorter distance to travel before it can exit the bag.

This results in less time on the plate, thereby reducing degradation of terpenes and cannabinoids. I theorize this can also reduce the amount of waxes/lipids melted and pushed through the bag into the rosin.

In addition to a shorter press, smaller bags require less pressure input at the cylinder due to the decreased surface area of the bag, which results in higher pressure exerted on the bag. It’s important to consider this when changing bag sizes. (More on psi @ plates vs bag another post).

When calculating perimeter vs area ratios, you will add the lengths of the sides (within the seams) after folding (1.8+1.8+6.5+6.5=16.6in=P) and multiply the length and width (1.8x6.5=11.7sq.in=A). Divide P/A =1.41 which shows a higher ratio of perimeter to area. A 2x4 (my fave size for small batches) has a ratio of 1.68.

Compare this to wider bags like a 3x6(2.8x5.5 folded) and you get P:A= 1.08. A 6x6=0.667 P:A The smaller sizes do come with cons of their own though, you can only add so much hash to the bag before risking a blowout. And it does take slightly longer to complete a shift of pressing, compared to a 3x6(where you get those rosin waterfalls). Pressing is the fun part tho.😜

Fortunately, like most things in cannabis: there are multiple ways to skin a cat and there’s no wrong way if you’re obtaining your desired results! 😎

Use my code Botanichemist at @rosinevolution100 for custom bag sizes(they have 2x7 in stock rn!) or Botanichemist5 at @lowtemp.plates for 5% off their gear!
After finagling your hash puck/rectangle/square in After finagling your hash puck/rectangle/square into your rosin bag, it’s most likely going to look like this. Since the hash has already been exposed to oxygen and heat, there’s a good chance the cuticle has been damaged and it will be leaking resin (which becomes rosin once you physically press it out).

You want the hash to fill all corners of the bag and be even thickness throughout. If you leave corners empty and don’t slowly ramp up heat and pressure while pressing: you will likely find rosin stuck in the fabric in that empty area. Getting it out will take folding the bag and pressing it a second time. (Which is typically a lower quality due to extra heat & time on the press.)

Leaving large lumps or making one side of the bag thicker than the other dramatically increases the risk of blowouts. (Want to talk about difficulty filling a bag with sticky stuff? Try putting 1/2 pressed hash into one. 🙃)

You can also use a pre-press mold to get your melty hash into a puck (though I rarely use molds cause I don’t like damaging the heads before pressing into rosin - it’s easy to pour cold hash into the bag using a funnel, so that’s what I do 99% of the time.)
 
These are double-bagged and are still sweating terps. Photo 3 shows room/body temp-pressed rosin on parchment. (Granted I wasn’t intentionally trying to collect this, so it’s minuscule. Still cool tho. 😎)
In relation to my most recent post: this is what w In relation to my most recent post: this is what will happen to your hash at 70°F room temp if you leave it out for too long before sifting into a jar and then immediately storing in a freezer.

When there is a high quantity of heads, they can easily grease together on the freeze dryer tray and form this tray-shaped hash patty that can not be sifted. Your options are now limited. You can: pull off chunks and form into rectangles that fit inside your rosin bags, fold them inside stainless mesh to press (expensive), attempt to microplane after freezing (damages heads), or run through the FD again (wastes terps).

My favorite way to work with sticky hash is to form an even-thickness puck - using body heat to manipulate it in your gloved hands. 

Then, turn a rosin bag inside out and put the bottom seams on the short edge of your hash puck, and use the puck to push the bag right-side out. Ever put a pillowcase on a long pillow? Maybe a more fitting but crude example would be putting on a condom. 😇 Apologies for the visual image. But I bet you get the “point” now! 🤣

Okay, I’m done. Better option is to avoid this altogether and sift in your cold room or sift one tray at a time, while leaving your FD running with the other trays inside.

Also, don’t ever set your hash next to a hot vacuum pump. You only do it once, I’ll tell you that.🙃
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Botanichemist Hash Rosin Consultant
jonathan@botanichemist.com
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